Three decades have passed since the birth of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW), an undeniable milestone in Brazilian fashion. Under the leadership of Paulo Borges and the holding of the IMM, the event evolved significantly, embracing diversity, sustainability, and art.
Three decades have passed since the birth of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW), an undeniable milestone in Brazilian fashion. Under the leadership of Paulo Borges and the holding of the IMM, the event evolved significantly, embracing diversity, sustainability, and art.
In the last edition, called Sintonia, which took place between April 9 and 14, the SPFW set the tone by joining the Heliópolis Symphony Orchestra at the opening, signaling a fusion between fashion and art. However, behind the glamour, management issues arise, including supporting local talent and the balance between influencers and journalists. Despite the challenges, the impact of SPFW on Brazilian culture is indisputable. The event became a catalyst for the international recognition of national fashion, thanks to Borges' vision of valuing local talent.
While in the first editions a white elite predominated, Borges always sought diversity and inclusion. Social movements such as Sankofa drove this change, opening space for formerly marginalized designers. Today, we see a more inclusive and representative SPFW, where designers such as Isa Isaac Silva, Maurício Duarte and Mônica Sampaio have their deserved highlight, occupying space unimaginable 30 years ago, becoming a testimony of the continuous evolution in the national fashion scene, driven by the desire for change and progress.
CHECK OUT THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MAIN FASHION SHOWS OF THE 57TH EDITION
At the forefront of contemporary trends, Renata presents a collection that echoes the resounding cries of modern culture: the “Female Rage”. A narrative where fashion becomes the voice of an intense and powerful feminine expression. Flowers, ethereal dresses and a palette of luxurious fabrics such as velvet, plush and tulle are the protagonists of this visual story.
Completing the scenario, corsets, tights and long hair enrich the tapestry of revolutionary femininity. The Victorian silhouette emerges as a striking element, intertwined with a pulsating energy of fury, as if each piece were a statement about feminine power. In the brand's Fashion Film, this narrative unfolds, revealing a woman's journey through her traumas, shaped by the redemptive force of fashion.
However, it's not just an explosion of emotions. The pieces have an impeccable finish, standing out as symbols of feminine determination and independence. It is a collection for those who are not afraid to fight for their desires, whether for the search for autonomy or the search for justice. The bride who closes the fashion show evokes the image of Dani, from “Midsommar”, suggesting that, even at the height of fury, there is room for redemption and happiness. Renata invites us to reflect on the transformative power of fashion, where feminine expression finds its most eloquent voice.
The national fashion spotlight was directed at Silvério, who celebrated a decade of impeccable style in a fashion show that reaffirmed his status as the industry's last romantic. Known for his precise tailoring and sophisticated silhouettes, Silvério once again impressed with his “Sublime” collection.
The brand brought an affable vision of streetwear, where the precision of the execution stood out in every detail. The drapes and spiral tailoring have been cleverly incorporated into fabrics such as twill and cotton, resulting in an unpretentious minimalism that defies gender standards.
This isn't just a clothing collection; it's a reflection on a new, more inclusive and comprehensive way of loving. Silvério reminds us that fashion goes beyond fabric and sewing, it's about telling stories and transmitting messages. In this case, it's a declaration of love for diversity and the beauty found in simplicity.
LED presented a memorable fashion show under the title “The Beautiful Dance of Love”, with the support of Riachuelo. The collection, designed by Célio Dias, delved into the depths of human emotions, portraying the different phases of love through a unique perspective. Through the pieces presented, Célio Dias led the spectator through an emotional journey, moving between urban and rural settings. Flaming prints adorned dresses, coats, and sweatshirts, while transparencies and fringes embraced the bodies, highlighting the intensity of the sentiment portrayed. Elements such as neon-colored nets add a touch of contemporaneity to the narrative.
The influence of the 1990s was present in denim outfits, with large models and cool prints, in a clear homage to the baggy aesthetic of the time.
The carefully selected soundtrack complemented the fashion show's atmosphere, ranging from Pabllo Vittar and Tired of Being Sexy to classics like “Evidences” by Chitãozinho & Xororó. The audience, captivated by the sensory experience, applauded the final lap of the event, witnessing the powerful fusion between fashion, music and emotion on the LED runway.
Maurício Duarte became one of the most anticipated fashion shows of this edition. The newbie who shows his third collection is the first indigenous designer to show his work during fashion week. In his new “Piracema” collection, the designer once again explores his origins, but this time based on the memory of experiences derived from the fishing practices of his grandparents.
In “Piracema”, a collection that uses the indigenous word Tupi, which means “fish climb”, we notice the strong presence of the theme of water and the practices of indigenous and riverside peoples, especially in the colors ranging from dark blue, earthy tones, cream and beige present in woven dresses that are presented as an allegory of fishing nets, traps and pirarucu fish scales. Highlight is the production of these dresses with natural fiber cotton yarns, without chemical additives, in addition to the pleated and wide-fit dresses and pants that are inspired by the fluidity of the Amazon rivers.
The parade was attended by indigenous artists such as the actress Rosa Peixoto and Zahy Tenetehar, who opened the fashion show with a musical performance in their mother tongue.
On his final lap, Maurício was applauded by the audience, who stood up and cried out for his name.
The Soteropolitan brand made its fifth appearance, presenting a collection that plunged deep into the human experience, from the first steps to the final moments. With an outstanding cast, including Erika Hilton, Thiago Pantaleão, Mc Rebecca, Majur, Sarah Aline and Lore Improta, the fashion show was packed with a soundtrack that merged funk with Bahian sound, complementing each piece with rhythm.
The prints explored the ups and downs of life, inviting spectators to reflect on their own personal journeys. On the runway, the fusion of culture and ancestry inspired by Jorge Amado's classic work “Sand Captains” brought out the essence of Salvador's streets. The characters, such as Pedro Bala and the Trapiche boys, represented the daily struggle to keep dreams alive in the midst of adversity.
The show not only celebrated fashion, but it also transmitted a profound message about resilience, identity, and the beauty found in everyday life experiences.
After a decade of absence, André Lima returns to the runways of São Paulo Fashion Week with a moving collection dedicated to the memory of Liana Padilha, a member of the electronic duo NoPorn, who died last March. In his most recent presentation, the renowned designer presents the public with a show of glamor and brilliance, emblematic characteristics of his style.
The collection stands out not only for its masterful use of well-known elements from its repertoire, such as the characteristic pointy dresses, but also for its new approach, leaving aside the iconic prints in favor of a palette that evokes hair, manes and wigs. Through the dazzling accessories signed by Débora Parisotto, the outfits come to life, transforming the models into true Glamazon warriors and retro-futuristic heroines.
The hair, with a striking eighties aesthetic, complements the deep necklines, vertiginous heels and shoulder straps that characterize Lima's creations. More than simply creating fashion pieces, each creation reveals André Lima's deep commitment to the creative process, highlighting his technical skill and his passionate dedication to the craft. This show not only celebrates the rich history of national fashion, personified by André Lima and its courageous authenticity, but it also marks the beginning of a new creative phase, filled with innovation and emotion.
A real wig dance!
