Schiaparelli FW25/26: between the Old West and the future of fashion

Since taking over the creative direction of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry has turned the house into a cultural phenomenon. From the most iconic red carpets to the latent desire for pieces that unite surrealism and sophistication, his approach has kept alive the bold spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli, translating it into the present. Now, for autumn/winter 2025-2026, he takes us to Texas, his roots, and proposes a woman who moves between opposites: delicate and imposing, practical and opulent, solitary and magnetic.

The LONE STAR collection is a dive into that duality. Drawing on the strength of the women around him, Roseberry reflects on the real meaning of women's dress: far from the male gaze, close to the essence of the wearer. The pieces swing between masculine archetypes and a divine feminine, taking references from the Old West into a sophisticated and sculptural reading.

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Cowboy, but make it Schiaparelli

The silhouette revisits the western world without falling into the obvious. Brown leather jackets carry embossed prints with the house's emblematic codes, accompanied by high-waisted tailored trousers and western boots with a fine heel. Oversized buckles appear as sculptures in golden metal, highlighting elements such as locks and eyes, symbols already classic to Schiaparelli.

The play of textures turns the rustic into luxury: a small clutch that at first sight looks carved from copper is in fact a specially treated leather. A long dress in heavy jacquard proves surprisingly light, while close-fitting bodysuits that suggest restriction move like a second skin.

The accessories follow the same principle. The bags gain epic dimensions, such as the new slouch-side top handle bag, a deliberate exaggeration for a woman who carries the world with her. The classic Soufflé bag appears studded with hundreds of golden nails, while chandelier earrings and textured metal necklaces reinterpret the house's icons.

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Between reality and fantasy

But the collection goes beyond aesthetics. Roseberry raises an essential question: what is still precious in a world where everything can be replicated? In an era of information overload and ultra-fast fashion, LONE STAR proposes pieces that resist time, that do not dissolve into the ephemeral.

The soundtrack of the show, the husky voice of Lainey Wilson, reinforces the idea that this is a collection for women who walk at their own pace. Gigi Hadid and Mona Tougaard walked with the confidence of those who command their own space, reinforcing that, in the end, true luxury lies not in display but in authenticity.

At a moment when the digital tires us and the screen is no longer enough, Roseberry reminds us of the power of physical experience, of what cannot be translated by an algorithm. LONE STAR is not merely a collection, but a manifesto: an ode to women who are, always, singular.

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