SPFW N60: Forca Studio presents Helyx
The label, created by Silvio De Marchi and Vivi Rivaben, keeps its underground spirit, but now projects itself into a wider field, taking on the transition from independent project to retail structure, with entry into the wholesale calendar and the official launch of its made-to-measure line, previously restricted to artists and insiders.
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Words by Sarah Rocksane Araujo
Editorial, Fashion and Beauty
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Forca Studio, known for its aesthetic and its narrative of insubmission, enters a new era with the launch of the collection Helyx, presented at Campo de Marte during SPFW N60. The chosen location, an airstrip, already anticipates the collection's central idea: to take flight. Not only in the literal sense, but as a metaphor for strategic growth, expansion of language and aesthetic acceleration.

The label, created by Silvio De Marchi and Vivi Rivaben, keeps its underground spirit, but now projects itself into a wider field, taking on the transition from independent project to retail structure, with entry into the wholesale calendar and the official launch of its made-to-measure line, previously restricted to artists and insiders. That move marks a turning point: Forca stops being only aesthetic and aspirational to position itself as a commercial force with its authorial identity intact.
The aesthetic of the Helyx collection speaks with a futurist imagination, but not the sanitised futurism of international runways; rather a techno-spatial futurism of Latin DNA, marked by tension between precariousness and ambition, between rust and shine. The collection's name evokes the propeller, a mechanism of aerial thrust, and translates visually the idea of movement, aerodynamics and acceleration.

The colour range reflects that double impulse: light, technical tones such as off-white, ice and olive green live alongside intense, dense colours such as burnt red and oxidised brown, as though the looks carried the metallic memory of friction. The label abandons total black and opens onto a palette that suggests heat, friction and a sidereal atmosphere.
The chosen materials reinforce the exchange with the techno-sporting and the speculative industrial: rubberised fabrics, polished leather, chiffon recalling the lightness of aerial suspension, jacquard and faux fur used as devices of tactical and sensory contrast.

The highlight is an exclusive viscose fabric with a rubber finish and crumpled texture, which creates the effect of a worn surface, as though the garment had already crossed atmospheres.
The latex pieces, the result of a collaboration with Cece, place the body in a territory between protection and exposure, a hybrid of pilot's suit and biotechnological skin. The day after the show, the opening of made-to-measure service to the general public consolidates the label's new phase.
Unlike imported futurist aesthetics, which imagine tomorrow from an idealised technological cleanliness, Forca proposes a future with rust, with surfaces under tension, with bodies that project forward without denying their urban and Latin-disobedient origins. Helyx projects a fashion that inhabits both the landing strip and the street, both the basement of the clubs and the aggressive brightness of São Paulo concrete.
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