SPFW N61: À La Garçonne

In the À La Garçonne collection, this tension appears as one of the main tools for building the brand’s identity, revisiting elements of its repertoire to reaffirm an aesthetic defined by a blend of references, materials and temporalities.

The collection presents jumpsuits and cotton‑twill dresses with hand‑painted landscapes and floral motifs, pieces that revive the imagery of cords drawn on parkas, sneakers, denim jeans and other items that have become recognizable since the label’s debut at the event ten years ago. In this return there is a visual memory that does not rely on an exact reproduction of the past to stay alive. The codes reappear in new compositions, like fragments of a story that continues to be written with each collection. Naval‑inspired decorations also return to the runway, now in dialogue with sequin blouses and metallic shirts, bringing utilitarian references closer to surfaces that capture light.

The encounter produces an interesting effect: the clothing does not have to choose between roughness and shine, between functionality and ornament. It is precisely in the coexistence of these elements that À La Garçonne finds space to elaborate its language. By retrieving motifs that have run through its trajectory, the brand acknowledges the strength of its own repertoire, yet avoids turning it into a static formula. Memory works as experimental material, open to new combinations and interpretations. Ten years after its debut at the event, the codes that helped establish its identity remain present, not as preserved relics but as tools to think about dressing in the present.

The contradictions run through the collection also in the way the pieces are combined. Pink jacquard dresses appear paired with men's dress shoes, while suits are worn with New Balance sneakers, producing encounters between formality and casualness, delicacy and pragmatism. Jackets inspired by the 1950s feature wool tapestry details on the back, incorporating references associated with interior design and textile work.

In another composition, a flared skirt with a floral print meets a worn tank top, bringing ornamental care close to a deliberately distressed appearance. These choices are not merely visual contrasts intended to provoke surprise. They question the expectation that each piece must obey a single code of use, finish, or aesthetic association. The dress shoe ceases to function solely as an accessory to formal attire; the floral jacquard does not need to remain confined to a conventional notion of femininity; the worn surface can coexist with an elaborate construction without one characteristic nullifying the other.

Styling plays an important role in this operation: it is through the relationships between pieces, textures and proportions that the elements acquire new meanings. A wool‑tapestry jacket, for example, carries a tactile dimension that shifts the perception of clothing beyond the usual surface, while the worn tank top introduces an informality that prevents the floral skirt from remaining tied to an overly romantic image. The mix does not erase the stories of each element, but allows them to transform in the encounter with other references.

By gathering naval references, floral motifs, tapestries, vintage pieces, tailoring and materials of different origins, À La Garçonne builds a collection whose unity arises less from the repetition of a formula than from the way the elements are positioned in relation. The raw and the delicate need not reconcile in a perfectly balanced image; they can remain in tension, revealing new possibilities with each combination.