Veronica Leoni debuts at Calvin Klein with the Fall 2025 collection

The return of Calvin Klein Collection to New York Fashion Week now happens under the direction of Veronica Leoni. In her debut, Leoni takes up the codes of monumental minimalism, evoking the essence of American aesthetics with a contemporary eye. The Fall 2025 collection is a study in dressing for life, where classic pieces, the trench, the suit, the silk shirt, the five-pocket trouser, become vehicles of personal expression. The silhouette swings between architectural precision and intuitive fluidity, creating a balance between structure and movement. Underwear, a historical element of the label, returns as a discourse of intimacy, translated into knit henleys, ethereal slip dresses and softly touched tailoring.

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The materiality of the collection is a tactile essay on contrast: the solidity of wool and cashmere speaks with the lightness of wild organza; matte moleskin contrasts with the liquid shine of satin. Every texture is a gesture of intent, reinforced by a colour range rooted in the label's sophisticated neutrals, black, granite, grey, fudge, porcelain, punctuated by bold incursions of raspberry and vibrant citrus. In the intimate show, held at Calvin Klein's iconic headquarters, the setting sustained the identity of the Collection, with handmade rugs and a space that fused heritage and innovation.

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The relaunch of the Collection also marks a visual renewal of the label, where typography becomes a symbol of permanence and desire. The logo takes on a lighter and more humanised form, while the new typeface, drawn from the inscriptions of Trajan's Column, gives a sense of timelessness and classical rigour. In an almost imperceptible but deeply symbolic gesture, Leoni places the label, usually hidden, as the protagonist of her narrative, signalling a desire for closeness, intimacy and a return to the essence of Calvin Klein: uncomplicated sophistication, made to be felt on the skin.

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