RioFW 2026: Helô Rocha

There is an unrest that runs through the collection like an invisible thread, pulling the idea of the feminine into a realm where myth is not fantasy but expanded memory. On the runway, what emerges are not clothed bodies but wearable narratives: tired goddesses, earthbound mermaids, women who carry time not as a weight but as language. Helô does not correct the material; she listens. And, in this gesture, she turns wear into design, flaw into intention, ruin into permanence.

What could easily slip into the romance of the “imperfect” meets, here, an almost obsessive rigor. There is a textile intelligence that underpins the delirium. Laces overlap in meticulous layers, sewn with renaissance stitches on tulle as if they sprouted directly from the skin — not applied, but born there.

The project gains density in the Timbaúba embroidery, developed with Instituto Riachuelo, which places an artisanal Brazil at the center of a contemporary narrative without folklorization. Volumes at the hips, skirts that glide in mermaid silhouettes, corsets that structure without imprisoning, and tailoring that seems to have passed through a dream filter: everything coexists in this delicate balance between technique and intuition.

Silks, organzas and taffetas encounter antique sheets, heirloom towels, fabrics that have already lived other lives. There is something almost intimate in this meeting of the new with what insists on remaining. The whites, the marfins, the translucent pieces create a field of silence where marks (stains, wear, irregularities) cease to be noise and become the focus. It is a collection that does not shout its presence; it infiltrates. The nightgowns, the reinterpreted slips, the layers of beads and gemstones capture light with a calculated delicacy, as if they know precisely when to appear and when to disappear.